Prism
by Caroline Bautista
Difficulty: Experienced, or Adventurous Intermediate
This pattern is based on a formula which requires basic math skills. The knitter should have experience with decreasing and picking up stitches. Additionally, certain knowledge is assumed and not written out explicitly, such as how to work a 1 x 1 rib or how to work a buttonhole. The pattern also leaves some options open for the knitter to style the sweater in their preferred way. The pattern involves a unique modular construction, whereby the pieces can be joined as they are worked, minimizing the amount of seaming at the end, but requiring some experience and attention on the knitter’s part. Conventional seaming is an option as well.
Prism is inspired by the way a swatch of centered double decreases mimics the line of the shoulder, and the way a repetition of shapes in a modular design can really be amazing when those shapes are scaled up and down as needed.
[Photographer: Quinn Bautista / Model: Caroline Bautista]
SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size XS)
MATERIALS
This pattern lets you focus on the yarn you have or really want to use, in whatever gauge you like.
1 set straight needles, size to be determined by your chosen yarn and desired gauge.
1 set 32 inch circulars. the same size as the straight needles.
Tapestry needle
3 buttons, 7/8" in diameter
The shaping is created by the double decreases down the center of the piece. As long as the same type of decreases are used throughout, any type of decreases can be used. Since any gauge can be used, sizing is done by swatching and then working through a few basic calculations to get started. In order to get the most accurate idea of the size of the finished garment, the swatch should be blocked or washed in the same manner as will be used for the garment. It helps to know how to center a decrease, so that counting stitches won’t need to continue past the first decrease row.
If you are interested in lengthening the sleeves, here's a link to Caroline's instructions for 3/4 length sleeves. According to Caroline, these instructions are in the early, experimental stages, so feedback is welcome.
PATTERN
Calculations
Gauge
Find the gauge for your chosen yarn and needles, over stockinette stitch. ________st x ________rows = 4 inches
Gauge Per Inch
Divide by 4 to get your gauge per inch (If you get a decimal, round it to the second or third decimal place). ________st (this is SPI) x ________rows (this is RPI) = 1 inch.
Multiply SPI by 10.5 [11, 12, 12.75, 13, 13.5, 14] and find the closest odd number. This is CB (and refers to the shoulder on Diagram 1) ________.
Subtract 3 from CB. This is the number of sts you need to decrease in piece 1, or DS ________.
Divide DS in half. This is AB ________.
Multiply your RPI by 15.5 [16, 16.25, 16.5, 16.75, 17, 17.25]. This is total rows (TR) ________.
Divide TR by AB. This is approximately the number of rows you will work between decrease rows, or DR ________. So, for example, if this number is 4, you will decrease every 4th row. If this number is an odd number, round up or down depending on your height. If shorter than average, you might want to round down. If taller, round up. You can also calculate an uneven decrease plan, in which you might decrease every 4 rows for half of the piece and then every 6 rows for the second half of the piece, for example. There is also an opportunity later in the pattern to lengthen the sweater.
Piece 1
CO CB. Row 1 (dec row): *K AB, sl 1 st kwise, ssk, psso, k rest of row. Row 2: sl 1 st pwise, p until last st, sl 1 st pwise. Row 3: k. Row 4: as row 2. Rows 3 and 4 might be repeated or omitted depending on the number you got for DR. Row 5 (dec row): k AB -1, sl 1 st kwise, ssk, psso, k rest of row. Row 6: as row 2.
For each subsequent dec row, you will subtract 1 more st from AB. So, the next time you dec, you will k AB -2 and then work the dec. In the next dec row, you will k AB -3, and so on. This centers your decreases.
Rep from * until 3 stitches are left, k3tog. Break yarn, pull through, leaving a tail long enough to weave in later.
Piece 2
For each st CO in piece 1 pick up a st along CB on piece 1. Work to match piece 1.
Piece 3
Piece 3 is worked up along the first two pieces to close the armhole.
CO AB. If it’s an even number, add 1. While working in the same manner as pieces 1 & 2, join with pieces 1 & 2 as pictured in Diagram 2. (Refer to the optional joining, or work separately and seam later.)
Optional joining: In each RS row: pick up 1 st from edge CD on piece 2 with right needle, sl 1 st from left needle kwise, pass the picked up st over the slipped st, sl onto left needle and k as the first st in pattern. Work to last st, sl last st onto right needle, with right needle pick up st from edge CD on piece 1, sl both sts back onto left needle, and use the right needle to pull picked up st over the last st. K the last st. Wrong side is purled with the edges slipped pwise, as already in pattern, and no sts are picked up. Continue to do this until there are 3 sts left, then pick up a st from piece 1 and piece 2, and k5tog.
Pieces 4, 5, and 6
Duplicate pieces 1, 2, & 3. This forms the second sleeve.
Pieces 7 and 8
The next two pieces are adjacent to the pieces 1 and 4, so the two sleeves need to be laid out so that it is decided which sleeve is left, which is right, and which piece is the front. Cast on AB. If it’s an even number, add 1. Continue in pattern while joining one side. Do the same for the next piece but on the opposite side.
Piece 9
This piece joins the front of the garment. Multiply CB by .75. This is the front (F) ________. CO F, and starting at 1/4 of the length down from the shoulder of pieces 1 & 2, work down from the neck, joining with pieces 7 & 8.
Piece 10
This piece joins the back. Multiply CB by .25. This is a quarter of CB (QCB) ________. Add to CB. This is the back (B) ________. Cast on B, and work in a similar manner to piece 3. When QCB remains, bind off. This is at the nape of the neck.
Waistline shaping
To continue adding to the length of the garment, starting where piece 10 and 2 meet and placing a marker at this point, pick up one stitch for each stitch at the bottom of the garment using circular needles in the same size as the straight needles. Knit the first round, then begin shaping with double decreases centered directly under the pointed endings of pieces 1, 2, 4, 5, and 9 (all of the pieces that have been worked top-down). Work until desired measurement is achieved. Trying on the garment at this point is strongly encouraged! End at the marker.
Ribbing
Begin ribbing by working in a k1, make 1 pattern under every piece except for the back (piece 10). Under piece 10, work a 1 x 1 ribbing. On the next round, work 1 x 1 ribbing, and every m1 will become a purl stitch. This has the effect of spreading the front out in a flattering manner, and gathering the back a bit. Continue the 1 x 1 ribbing until desired length is achieved.
Armhole ribbing
Multiply your SPI by 2. This is your buttonhole tab, or BT ________. Using circular needles, and starting at the shoulder (point C), pick up stitches along the entire armhole, casting on BT at the end for the buttonhole tab. Do not connect to work in the round. Work back and forth in 1x1 ribbing for 3/4 inches, or half of desired length. Work buttonhole in buttonhole tab, then continue 1x1 ribbing for another 3/4 inches or desired length. BO in patt. Repeat for the other side. (The original test sweater was knitted without the tab and it was picked up and worked in the other direction later. Either method will work, but working the tab with the ribbing all at once is seamless.)
Neckline
Work a strip of 1 x 1 ribbing, 1” wide. Length is determined by measuring the neckline along the seam, as shown in Diagram 6. Work a buttonhole about 1 inch from the end.
FINISHING
Seam all edges as shown in the diagrams, if not already joined. Treat fabric as the swatch has been treated to unify the garment.
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Diagram 1
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Diagram 2
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Diagram 3
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Diagram 4
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Diagram 5
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Diagram 6
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ABOUT THE DESIGNER
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Caroline Bautista, a freelance graphic designer working in a library in LA, is currently doing her best to knit down her entire stash by the end of this year. Her progress, or sometimes lack thereof, is documented here.
Contact Caroline.
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